The 600K brevet

Un course quatrieme: the 600 km brevet
The final qualifier brevet for PBP was the 600K, which was held June 14-15. The route was mostly the same as the three previous brevets, leaving Rochester MN and passing through Byron, Stewartville, Chatfield, Wykoff, Harmony and then entering Iowa. On the 400K, the route went into Decorah; on the 600K, the route turned south before Decorah and went down into Spillville, West Union and Elkader. It was highly recommended that riders get a hotel room and sleep in West Union; unfortunately, by the time the 400K was held, all the rooms in West Union had been booked and there were no vacancies in the three hotels in town.

Searching the Internet, Tim found a B&B in Spillville. We would pass through Spillville in midafternon, check in to the B&B , and then do the leg out to Elkader and back. This would be about 400 km, leaving us with 200 km to complete the brevet the next day. Had we slept in West Union, we would have had about 255 km to ride on the second day.

All of the brevets had been a mixture of gently rolling terrain and flats. As it turns out, northeastern Iowa has very little flat terrain. In fact it is very hilly. Someone completing the brevet with an altimeter indicated that the total climbing for the event was 18,600 feet! By way of comparison, that's equivalent to climbing Alpe-d'Huez five times.

Saturday morning found us in the Wal-Mart parking lot at 5:30 AM. The forecast was for fine, sunny and warm weather. We had a wind out of the northeast with predictions for easterly winds on Sunday, which would be quite favorable for a bunch of crazy randonneurs. There were about 15 starters, each successive brevet having had fewer riders. After preparatory remarks by Martin, we rolled out promptly at 6:00 AM. From there to the first controle at Stewartville, as rode as a tight fast bunch. As is the case, the group disintegrated at the first controle, with some riders getting out in a minute or so and some riders stopping to use the bathroom, buy a snack, fill up waterbottles, etc. Tim and I left Stewartville with just each other for company. This was actually a relief in some ways, as it allowed us to pick our own pace and to not have to deal with pack dynamics. Some of the randonneurs did not seem all that skilled in close pack riding, others were very good. Interestingly enough, one of the worst was an upper category bike racer who really should have known how to ride smoothly with a group.

Tim B near
Wykoff The stretch from Stewartville to Chatfield is one of the worst on the route. It's flat, boring, and the pavement has cracks and uneven seems about every 15 feet. There's no shoulder and traffic volume is rather high. We're always glad to have that behind us. Chatfield is heralded by a fast descent, one of the larger hills on the course. This controle is the 50 mile mark, and from Chatfield to Wykoff- about 14 miles- is one of the most lovely stretches of road in southern Minnesota. The stretch ends with a long climb up into Wykoff, followed by basically flat to rolling terrain to Harmony.

It's about 27 miles from Wykoff to the next official controle in Harmony. In between is Rottweilerville, also known as Greenleafton. The farmhouse on the north edge of Greenleafton is home to some Rottweilers with a penchant for silently (and with intent) chasing bicyclists. Tim and I were first chased by two of them on the 400K as we came back through at dusk. We kept a sharp eye out as we passed the farm, and sure enough one of the Rottweilers came blasting across the yard from the back of the house. We had too much of a gap and he stopped well before the property line. About 100 yards further down the road, we were waved into the secret controle. When we mentioned the Rottweilers to Bob, he looked puzzled and said he hadn't seen them! As we asked around throughout the ride, we found that none of the other cyclists had seen or been chased by those Rottweilers. We hadn't seen the last of them, either.

A few miles south of Greenleafton, the route turns left onto a highway. A boring, flat highway. 11 miles of boring flat highway. Usually with no shelter from the wind. On the upside, it's new and the pavement is excellent with wide asphalt shoulders. Today the wind was more of a crosswind and we made good time into Harmony and the controle. For the first time, I noticed that there was a sign for the trailhead of the Harmony-Preston bike trail as we approached the controle; this trail links up with the Root River bike trail which has had the effect of revitalizing the economies of a number of southern Minnesota towns. After a brief stop, we resumed our peregrination south. We were still on familiar roads for a few miles, following the same course we took to Decorah two weeks ago. This time, however, we turned south to the next controle, in Spillville IA which was also going to be our home for the evening.

The road became distinctly more rolling as we went south through several river valleys, including the Upper Iowa River. The terrain was charming and the road quality very good. Iowans seemed to be tolerant drivers, waiting behind us if they couldn't see a clear road ahead rather than exhibiting the typically dangerous passing habits of Minnesotans. After many ups and downs, we climbed a rise crowned with what appeared to be a grain mill, adorned with the "Spillville Milling Company" name. We descended into town, past what looked likely to have been the original mill on the small river on the north side of town. Spillville turned out to be a well-tended town with a number of amenities, including the Bily Clock Museum.

The author at
the Spillville B&B We located the B&B easily, as it was on Main Street, and found that it was conveniently next door to the controle. When we had reserved a room, there were only a couple of options: a room with a queen sized bed and a room with a king size bed. I opted for the latter. We were the first randonneurs to arrive for check-in, so it turned out that we had a choice. We could have the kind sized bed, or we could stay in the "Woodshed" room behind the house, which had two beds, a shower and bathroom (in contrast to the shared facilities in the main house). We opted for the woodshed. Sharon, Martin's girlfriend, had managed the bag drop and our bags had beaten us to the B&B by several hours. We were able to put our stuff in our room, and then we hit the road.

Immediately south of Spillville, the road climbed for about a mile and rolled up and down across Iowa easterly through Festina to Ossian, where we turned off the B32 to the W32. I had not been feeling good from shortly after leaving Spillville, feeling bloated and somewhat nauseated, but by Ossian I felt better and was soon back to normal. From Ossian, we went south to West Union for a total of about 34 miles. From West Union, we were supposed to go to Elkader. Unfortunately we misread Martin's route markings, didn't have a cue sheet and had to rely on directions from locals to find Elkader. But we did finally find the road to Elkader, found the controle at the Sinclair station and signed in. The folks of Elkader turned out to be a warm and friendly bunch of people, who seemed to have some kind of hot rod rally going on. Elkader was a lovely little town, quite hilly and straddling a lovely little river.

On the road from Elkader back to West Union, we saw five randonneurs coming into town. All of them had big grins on their faces and were obviously enjoying the fine roads and fine weather. We rode west into the sunset quite literally along the B64, noting a remarkable number of churches as we went. One church was standing in the middle of a pasture of cows; we decided that must be the Church of St. Bovinus. As we rode through Elgin, we passed a campground full of people waving to us. Iowans wave a lot- even people who overtook us in their cars gave us a friendly wave after they had passed. Eventually we could see bright stadium lights a few miles off as dusk was falling. We were a couple of miles away when we started to hear the roar of stock car engines. The road passed about a half mile south of the track, and it was so loud during what sounded like ten lap heats that conversation was impossible. One of the hotels was said to also be about a half mile from the race track; I wondered how well the randonneurs there were sleeping.

Tim and I checked in at West Union, had a snack and headed out of town back to Spillville. Dark had fallen, so we switched on our lamps and rode through the deepening night. Night riding has a special quality. Normal perceptions of space and time seem to collapse into the small cone of light in front of you. You can't really see how fast you are progressing across the landscape, and places that seem like they should be close take a long time to reach. Conversely, places that seem far away are arrived at quickly. The night was clear and about an hour after sunset the nearly full moon rose and began to bathe the fields in light. The moon was greeted by barking dogs all over the area around us, further excited by us riding past their territories. At least one dog also tried to chase us for a while. We spooked a couple of deer and one grouse as we rode along. The down side was lots of traffic- we presumed these were folks coming from the races in West Union. A few of them shouted curses at us, but the majority were fine.

After an hour or so of delightful night riding, we came back to Ossian and stopped for a snack at the convenience store. Ossian also had a couple of loud parties going on, one of which seemed populated by young kids and their cars. Might have been some of the people yelling at us earlier when we drove by. Once out of Ossian, traffic was very much lower. It seemed like we went through Festina in just a few moments, passing the "Church of Our Lady of the Seven Dolorz" (sic). We rolled up and down some hill, and then at the foot of a long sweeping descent we suddenly saw Spillville. We arrived at the controle at 12:10AM, and we were in our room by 12:15. By comparison, this 400K ride today had taken us 2:25 less than the 400K two weeks ago. A quick shower to wash of the grime and sunscreen, a snack and then more than six beautiful hours of sleep.

Downtown Spillville Tim got up about 7:00 and I got up a few minutes later, feeling refreshed and happy even though I'm not a morning person. We packed up our bikes with the stuff we'd need for the day, packed our bags and took them to the front room to await pickup. Breakfast was at 8:00 AM, with six hungry randonneurs and one bemused couple who were in town for a wedding. We packed away a lot of food for six skinny people! By 8:30 we were ready to get on the road and probably left by 8:45. The folks who had stayed in West Union had planned to get up about 5:30, so they had passed through Spillville about 7:45 to 8:00. With an easterly breeze for company, we left Spillville into the cloudless morning.

The route retraced itself through Ridgeway to Pole Line Road, back to Hwy 139 and Harmony. The return leg seemed faster than the outbound leg, and suddenly we found ourselves at the controle in Harmony. We had passed a couple of randonneurs between Spillville and Harmony, and one of them caught up with us at the controle. We rolled out of Harmony westbound on Hwy 4 for 11 miles to Cty Road 9, which took us north through Greenleafton, a.k.a. Rottweiler Rendezvous. Right on cue, as we passed the last house on the north side of town, the dogs came barreling after us- this time a pack of three! Having expected them, we already had a head of steam up and we quickly outdistanced the dogs. I muttered imprecations about ignorant dog owners who do not restrain their animals and let them chase bicyclists, wildlife, etc. I suppose I should call the Fillmore County Sheriff and report the dogs as a public nuisance.

Rolling terrain brought us to Wykoff once again, past the truck tractor mechanics' shop and Ed's Museum. We stopped for water and a snack, and then pushed off into the most beautiful part of the ride, the section from Wykoff to Harmony. Unlike the other rides, we were to see few of our peers today and none between Harmony and Rochester. Stopping at the controle in Chatfield only briefly, we were soon climbing the hill out of the valley onto the plain and heading for Stewartville. This is the worst stretch of the trip, with bumpy asphalt and boring scenery. At least the wind wasn't against us, but I noticed that my left knee was aching and my right ankle was, too. It took about an hour to get to Stewartville, with my leg hurting more and more as we rode. I was also getting tired as the ride finally caught up with me. By this point we'd ridden about 340 miles in two days and climbed a lot of hills. We were met in the controle by a guy with a pickup truck, looking for a friend of his who was doing the brevet but hadn't been seen since Ridgeway at 9:00 AM in Iowa. We'd passed him on Pole Line Road at probably 9:30 or 10:00 AM, at which point he seemed really happy and was just rolling along at his own pace.

Between Stewartville and Byron, the last controle before the end. I really started to get uncomfortable. My saddle was getting to me, my left knee was aching more and my right ankle was getting to feel like someone was stabbing me with every revolution of the pedals. My speed dropped and I had a harder time staying on Tim's wheel. The last few rollers into Byron were almost insurmountable, my ankle hurt so badly. I contemplated quitting the ride, but the only way home was to ride back to the car in Rochester- at which point I might as well ride the last 200 yards to the controle! After a few minutes rest, we hit the road for the final 10 miles of the brevet series.

The road into Rochester from Byron has one steep hill, which I tried climbing in a granny gear. That was actually worse, as it meant more pedal revolutions. Past that, it was only a few miles of rolling terrain and one very short hill before the last, mostly downhill mile to the end. We signed in at the Customer Service desk at Wal-Mart, and then returned to the car. We found Martin a few yards away, ready to collect our final brevet cards and to give us our drop bags- as well as a little celebratory champagne. We were done! And qualified for PBP!

RASC 600K brevet Results
June 14-15, 2003

Foster Renwick 29:32
Daniel Stahlman 31:45
Charles Breer 31:45
Jim Joy 31:50
Robert Alwin 31:54
Dan Dunn 32:35
James Hopson 33:00
Bill Johnson 33:02
Martin Fahje 33:15
Greg Barkley 35:07
Jim Foley 35:50
Tim Bruns 36:20
Tim McNamera 36:20
Bob Thompkins 38:21
Tom Miller 38:40


The 200K brevet The 300K brevet The 400K brevet Getting there Paris-Brest-Paris 2003